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green canyon ташкент

green canyon ташкент

world without visa around the world with valery shanin hiking on the lycian trail is the next stage of the project "world without visa", in which, valery shanin travels only in countries that are visa-free for russians. in this journey his companions were oleg semichev from tashkent jane from irkutsk kate klementieva from sakhalin island mikhail ivanov from almaty and sergey chernyshev from petropavlovsk-kamchatsky turkey: the lycian trail in ancient times, a mining area located in the south-west of asia minor, in the region of the teke peninsula, was called lycia.

on the west it bordered with karya, on the north with phrygia and pisidia, on the east with pamphylia and washed by the mediterranean sea on the south the coastline is strongly indented in lycia. there are many bays, islets and sheltered coves. and internal areas are occupied by fertile valleys separated by spurs of the taurus range. at the end of the xx century, an englishwoman named kate clow, paved the lycian tourist route. it became one of the most popular trail in the world.

disparate roads, trails and goat paths are connected in a single path, with a total length of 509 kilometers. the trail is marked with red and white marks. in some places, they are more common and in others, less common. and sometimes completely lost or hidden in dense vegetation. there are numerous signs along the trail. they show the direction to the nearest historical attractions or large settlements. you can go on the path without a guide. of course, you may end up strayed. mutual assistance between tourists helps them to find their way.

the most difficult area to for orientation are the fields lined with pyramids of stones. the lycian trail streches along the mediterranean coast of turkey, from fethiye to antalya. the path goes through forests and mountains, agricultural areas, ancient ruins, villages and abandoned villages. the route is made so that it can be walked with ease. it is never more than one day's walk, from one rest area to the next. on the way, you can easily find restaurants, snack bars and grocery shops. with the alternative of travelling with a tent, cooking over a campfire and sleeping under the stars. there are no organized campsites in turkey.

a tent can be placed anywhere without any restrictions. it's easy to find drinkable water and wood for the fire. there are also springs, rivers, lakes and wells. you can easily ask for water in any home. the turks are a very hospitable people. especially to foreigners. local residents not only willingly undertake to fulfill traveler's requests, they also invite them for tea, food and shelter. the trail can be walked at any time of the year.

but the ideal season remain spring or autumn. as summers are too hot and winters too wet. the most popular season on the trail — may holidays. - we start! the lycian trail begins on the outskirts of fethiye. from oludeniz, she abruptly goes into the mountains. - it looks like they closed the door in front of us. - yes, but we still will make it through. - they may ask for tickets?

- certainly, there was an entrance fee. - and a free exit. these places were inhabited already in ancient times. every flat pieces of land were cleared of stones. in the fields, wheat, orchards and citrus are grown. on the rocky wasteland, goats are kept and in the woods — bees. all the springs are maintained. water can be drank without the need of boiling it. - immediately drink water.

- a turtle. look at how the turtle is breathing! - whatever. the path reaches the sea for the first time, in the area of kabak, on a small pebble beach. the water is still cold and swimming is unattractive. but it is already quite comfortable to sleep in the tent. it is not cold. - we managed to wake up shanin only at half past nine. - at least we got enough sleep. the sun hasn't risen yet over the mountains! so we can allow ourself to sleep until half past ten. in the morning, back on the trail.

- we are now officially on the trail. - yeah, here is an obstacle! on the lycian trail you will encounter such places. - here, turn left here. - the stones are fragile, the road is uncertain. - sure! the trail goes along the coast but, at a certain distance from the water's edge. there are some rocks on that stretch of the beach. going under the canopy of pine trees is nice and easy. the air is filled with the healing scent of pine needles.

- we are going so slowly that, even a tortoise could overtake us! we often come across springs with drinking water. death from starvation is not a threat. it is the end of april. a riot of flowers and wild herbs, demonstrates that spring really is in full swing. already in the times of ancient lycia they began to grow winter wheat. this wheat was not only grown for their own consumption, part of the harvest was also shipped to rome, by cargo. - hello, friend! i brought you a friend. i want you to meet. - well, prickly?

- yes, very prickly and even with bugs. the grasshoppers love them. only ruins remain from the ancient cities and settlements. - stones were tumbling down randomly. - only one thing is sticking out. - and that's it. the rest is blown away! the best preserved tombs, are the ones that have been cut out in the rocks or folded out of huge blocks. - they got out of the tombs. there are ancient cemeteries as well. the ruins are not fenced and unguarded.

in antique times here was a bustling lycian city. people used to live right here, in this very place. and now, it is empty and silent. except for the distant bark of a dog and the lonely knocks of a drum. - now we should set it up properly. - careful, careful! so we put it here. - super! - well, cut some more. can you leave some for me for the morning. now the rice is ready. - but valera does not like to carry stuff.

- get up! all rise. - it is morning, all right, and the sun shines so wonderfully! - give me another 5 minutes to sleep. chorba — mercimek or soup of lentils is a traditional turkish dish. it is served in all the cafes, restaurants and eateries. it is cheap, tasty and nutritious. the dinner ends with a traditional turkish tea. without it, it simply does not. all of the team members cannot move at the same speed. at the forefront are the athletes,

they almost don't look around. in the rear, are those who are constantly distracted by something. looking at the flowers, trying to establish contact with representatives of the local fauna. lovers of archaeology stuck at the ruins for a long time. and there is a lot of them here. the lycians founded their cities in the most convenient places. most often on the top of a mountain or on the river bank. on a hill at the mouth of the xanthos river in the mediterranean sea, there was, in ancient times, a port city called pindai.

it has not been destroyed. when the river became shallow, and the boats could not enter it, the residents left their houses and moved to a new location. and now nobody lives here. except the tourists, that sometimes visit the local sandy beach. - it is not ripe. right there, in the middle, there are some ripe ones. - i stole two – run! but on the third we will all get caught. - run, you say! run. he is coming to you. - monsters, they are even taking pictures. - smell it!

- it is unbelievably delicious! - tomato smell. - holy crap! i am going to pick some too. they are very tasty! with the help of modern technology, the turks have learned how to grow several harvests a year. at the end of april it gets hectic in the greenhouses. all, young and old, are picking the tomatoes. - thank you! - hitchhiking on tomatoes. - we celebrate the epiphany with tomatoes. we have the whole day tied up.

a greek myth describes a story that took place in these places. one day, the nymph of the summer stopped at the water source. but local herders did not allow her to drink. the indignant goddess then turned them into frogs. she was save from thirst by the wolves. they showed her the way to the xanthos river. from the greek word "lykos", meaning wolf, and the name of the country, lycia. near the source, there are still frogs floating, descendants of the mythical shepherds who founded the city of letoon, which then became the center of worship to the goddess of leto. there, still remains from ancient times, the foundations of several churches,

fragments of mosaics. and an amphitheatre. - it is a lot of calories. so many calories that we have to burn them now. walking, walking. - go on, he says. - and again tomatoes. - it's a tomato paradise! there were 23 major cities in lycia. one of the most important was xanthos. it was founded by settlers from crete in the viii century bc.

the city was the capital of the lycian union. and later became a part of the roman empire. only fragments remain from the high walls. while the roman theatre, on the contrary, is perfectly preserved. even hosting thrilling circus performances, in our times. the surroundings of xanthos were settled even before the founding of the city. - tractors will help us! the olive trees planted in the ancient times still bear olives. the irrigation system created by the lycians also preserved.

the water is so pure, like thousands of years ago. you can drink it without boiling. nowadays, it is very rare. this aqueduct is nearly two thousand years old. and it works perfectly. - wonderful water is moderately cool, moderately clean. in the evening, the travelers lost the trail and wandered into a dense pine forest. even the smallest glades could not be found. - we've been descending all night. - we had to sleep in spartan conditions.

- we are not loosers to choose the normal way. here, here… according to the map, we have to go straight. the trail passes somewhere closer to the sea. - looks like to go to the coast we should head somewhat to the left. - what a beautiful tea, the color is beautiful. - we eat sweets! the valley of the xanthos river, is one of the largest agricultural regions of lycia. here, every cultivable piece of land is used. in ancient times, they built aqueducts to supply water to the cities. the water was supplied by numerous sources.

the romans water supply system is not working now but the water still flowing from under the ground. - well! and nearly as clean. it's just a little cool. you can drink it, take a bath or wash some clothes. but it is nicer to swim in the sea, even at the end of april. at the end of april it is possible. the lycian trail led us to a dirt road. and there, we caught a passing tractor that brought us to the village of gelemis. on its outskirts begins the famous patara beach. this wide strip of fine golden sand, stretches for 15 kilometers along the sea.

in the summer, there is always a lot of tourists. the port city of patara was founded in the vi century bc. it was one of the largest cities in the lycian union. here lived the roman emperor hadrian. and on the way to rome stayed in st. paul. in the iv century, patara was the birthplace of saint nicholas, which became the prototype of a christmas santa claus. in the process of excavation, on the hillside, archaeologists have cleared up 28 rows of seats in the amphitheatre. the stage has partially preserved too. and most recently, a sensational discovery was made. the he world's oldest lighthouse was found.

now, it stands on the shore of a shallow boggy lagoon. in ancient times, the bay was there. now access to the sea is blocked by the sand dunes. - this herb is wonderful. look. - the russians. two days later, the trail brought us back at the same place. the trail made a ring and led us to the same aqueduct, one we passed before. - turkey-patara. - we have not encountered such a disgrace before. here is the sign! it's a dead end.

- it is a misha screaming. misha, where are you? - there's a sign there on the left. see! - give me another hand. - well done! cool! - we are walking in the heat of the sun. - it is 35 degrees in the shade according to the news. - heat! - what can we do? it isn't easy for anyone? we need to continue walking. - but we'll take a sit first.

- smells of grass. that one over there? the holiday village of kalkan has replaced the greek village of kalamaki. now this village, is popular amongst those who prefer a quiet and relaxing holiday by the sea. from kalkan, the lycian way turns abruptly from the sea towards the mountains. each step we take, we can see new species. all better than the previous one. - prepare a place where to sleep! stones everywhere, we need to pick and clean the place. - so people don't suffer from idleness. so to speak, pre-sleep excercise. like we did not do enough today. - yeah, we walked bear minimum. we placed our tent near the trail, and in the morning, we found a well close by.

we did not dare to drink unboiled water. but how can you deny yourself the pleasure to take a morning shower? - who wants more? - morning swim is just super! let's do it again! the section of the trail between kalkan and kashem is not very popular among tourists. there are no travellers overtaking you and, no one to meet. and the markings have not been recently updated, so marks are often lost. there are no villages, no houses. no one to ask directions to. travelers need to follow the map.

or go straight — in azimuth. a perfect place for fans of a solitary life in nature, wanting to live a traditional way of life. the trail runs past the farm of one of these voluntary hermits. the house of hasan, is an unexpected oasis for tourists, in this lifeless desert. he invited us, and treated us to tea and food. - i ate, very well! along the trail, we found nameless ruins that were not marked on the map. - what are you talking about? this temple? what else is there?

- there in the bushes another. - and another temple and another. and then we all scattered bushes. now, for some reason, nobody lives here. although the earth is suitable for processing. - who placed this under my head? - so you won't be bored at night. it was warm at night. and there were no mosquitoes . it's not necessary to put up a tent. in the morning instead of physical excercises — a walk with backpacks. and then, as expected, water treatments. and breakfast.

the turks are very hospitable. and in relation to women too. - it's mine! he doesn't understand. posing. oleg and eugene are leaving the expedition. - farewell! we are going to antalya and then, to moscow. valery, michael and kate continue the hike together. the trail leads them through woods, fields, past abandoned villages and rocky wastelands. the marks are often difficult to discern through these dense thickets. the trail is often lost.

- is there a stream near by? translated from the greek, the name of the ancient city of felos means, "the cork oak". still today, we can see the ruins of temples and lycian tombs. and the views of the mountains and the coast are wonderful. on the shore, at the foot of the cliff under felos, was in ancient times, the port of antiphellos. it is briefly mentioned in homer's "illiad". the inhabitants of this city fought on the side of the trojans. until 1923, the majority of the urban population were greeks. after their eviction, the city was renamed as kas, which translated from turkish means, "eyebrow".

the climate here is wonderful. the kekova region is one of the protected areas of turkey. with steep rocky slopes and overgrown with thorns. on the lycian way sometimes there are unexpected obstacles. - at the moment you can see the mark there, the road goes there, but it is blocked by a grid. - so using the "old folk method", we remove the screen and go. only need to close it back. - and that's good. - on the lycian trail meets with the sea in many places, but the beaches are rare. - so you have to swim in unsuitable places, like here for example.

- oh, the beauty! everywhere you can see traces of human presence. but the people themselves are not visible. the stones in the flatter areas of the land have not been removed. on the trail, some tourists appeared. or rather tourists from neighboring town resorts. they travel light, with little urban backpacks. to spend the night and then return to their hotels. the ancient lycian city of aperlai was founded in v century bc. in roman times, its inhabitants were called perlite.

to this day, the city walls from the roman period, towers, an empty tank with a collapsed roof and a sarcophagi, were preserved. archaeologists continue to dig. probably, the location was chosen based on its aesthetic appeal. here, the sunrises and sunsets are gorgeous. there are ruins scattered everywhere. with no signs, or number or anything. we have to guess by what, by who and why it was destroyed. the trail goes along the rugged coastline, methodically skirting the many bays and coves.

uchagys in turkish means "three passages". there are two straits on the opposite ends of the kekova island, and the narrow entrance to the estuary. in uchaguzi, sergey chernyshov from petropavlovsk kamchatsky, joined the expedition. - yes, i started this morning. yesterday i drove for a long time, almost 6 hours, from the plane to here. pressed. - the road is so narrow, heavy, we need to squeeze in. - we found a source of fresh water right under the rock brand. a beautiful, cold, potable water flows into this bay. at the mouth of the river andros, in ancient times, was the port of andriake. during the rule of emperor hadrian in the ii century ad, the romans built huge barns to store grain. the wheat gathered from the fields of lycia was sent to rome.

- is it possible that the lycians did not ride on carts? this can not be. -- yes, the essence is the same. now it is an iron path. - the main thing that it's not for money but out of kindness. the ancient city of myra was in the lycian union. the gains from trade and fine crops on the fertile lands of the delta of the river, provided the citizens with a full and rich life. enough to buy food and erect magnificent buildings. the tombs are carved directly into the rock. the amphitheatre was designed for 30 thousand seats. we can see many rows of seats of the audience, the scene and arches covered galleries, still perfectly preserved.

roman emperor julius caesar and the apostle paul were visiting here. at the beginning of the iv century, the local bishop was nicholas, from patara. he performed many miracles and was canonized. saint nicholas became the patron saint of fishermen and sailors. as well as the prototype of the fabulous santa claus, which children and adults are getting christmas gifts from. the church of st. nicholas was built in the iv century ad. in the middle of the xix century, it was rebuilt with money donated by members of the russian imperial family. - how many kilometers , we don't know, at least it showed the direction where to go. there, and then along the mountains. from myra the trail steeply goes up into the mountains. according to the map, in the next two days we will climb from sea level to a height of 2 kilometers.

and afterwards, we will descend back to the coast. - misha rise, that's enough sleep. the ascent is quite steep and long. - give me a hand! - my teeth. - have you hurt your knee? - i could not resist, it's already a reflex, walked quietly on the road, and here is this truck. how could i not try stopping it? - where we have to sleep. even on the road. as the horses. the road intersects with the route of the lycian way again, near the ruins of the byzantine church.

- so hurry! - how much empty bottles did they have lying around there. on the pass there is a well. the water is not very clean. but if you boil it, you can safely drink. in turkey, firewood can be found everywhere, in bulk. and camp fires are not prohibited. - the wonder of turkish food. - from uchagiz. we eat the soup.

in the section from finike town to the village of karez, the trail goes along the busy highway. it is better to travel this part by bus. behind the village the gelidonia peninsular begins. the trail passes by the pirate bay. then leads to standing on the edge of the cape to the lighthouse. there is wind blowing through a pine forest and beautiful rocky hills. - and some walked the whole lycian path in flip-flops. finally, the pebble beach travelers come to the village of adrasan. in early may, the mulberries are ripening.

- they fell. juicy, ripe. - they are falling. i found some nice ones! behind the village of adrasan is another mountain stage. there are no light hitch-hikers in this area. only tourists with large backpacks. as a rule, russians. or ukrainians. - hello! can you imagine walking for 5 days and finally seeing the sea. olympus was one of the largest cities of ancient lycia. here was the base of pirates. they plundered ships carrying grain from north africa to rome.

the romans never managed to get rid of them. and the turks solved this problem with one stroke of the pen. the sultan took all the bottom-feeders in the composition of its fleet. leaders of robbers became officers. and the most important of them — the admiral. tragically, nature inflicted a merciless blow from which the city never recovered. at this river's mouth the pirate ships were hiding and now it is so shallow that you can cross it by foot. after the closure of the port, the city was abandoned. an amphitheatre, temples and tombs gradually became overgrown by forest. excavations began at the end of the last century.

and the picturesque ruins have become one of the most popular tourist attractions. from olympus, the trail goes along the pebble beach to the cirali village. five kilometers from the village of cirali, you can watch an amazing natural phenomenon. on the hill of chimaera, gas escapes from holes in the rock. when exposed to the air, it miraculously ignite. the flame can extinguish. but after some time, the gas erupts again. between the ruins of the temple of hephaestus and a sheer cliff, on a territory a bit larger than a soccer field, are scattered these natural gas burners — both at the urban kitchen. it's just a sin not to use one for its intended purpose.

on the hill of chimaera, the lycian way forks. one branch goes along the coast, and the second one over the hill by the olympus mountain. members of the expedition were divided into two groups. michael and sergey chose to pass on the easier coastal route. valery and katya went to conquer the highest mountains on the lycian trail. close to the village of ulupinar is a small campsite. no frills. a campground, a spring and a samovar. there is no prescribed fee.

everyone pays as much as will fit. on the top of the slopes of mount olympus, called tahtali in turkish, lebanese cedar grows. in ancient times, this tree was used to built reliable boats now cedar is an endangered species. there are just a few instances in the world. the grove of mount olympus — is the largest outside lebanon. mount olympus was covered by clouds. a storm began. a wall of torrential rain came with the speed of an express train, accompanied by thunder and lightning.

it became urgent to hide under the roof. fortunately, we came across an abandoned summer house on our way. - eveyore, are you biting? i will strangle yourself. if you bite, i am not going to feed you. carrots i have. on the outskirts of the village gedelme grows a giant sycamore. it is located near a cave and the ruins of a castle. - everything looks delicious. they even put some plov for us. - first squatting. then warming up of the upper body. and then we'll hit the road. just be careful! - on the trail we have not encountered anything like this. there are many immigrants from the former ussr in turkey now.

people from russia and ukraine come here to rest. and people from the central asian republics come here to work. on the farm gã¶ynã¼k yayla lives murad, from the turkmen city of mary. - local bushes are so flimsy. how can they withstand holding these large pomegranates? - we put the forks! the trail goes along the slopes protected the gã¶ynã¼k canyon. the pointer says: the distance is 10 kilometers, travel time - 7 hours. at first i did not believe it. how so? because the average walking speed is just a mile per hour?

and this is well-trodden trail! even from the top down? however, here is the part of what is written that you should believe. the trail meanders from side to side. it crosses the river several times. - goynuk canyon is a wonderful place. the trail goes over there. we've lost count. - of course, it takes 5 times more time than the conventional trail. but i don't want to spend one second in the canyon. - sometimes you have to walk in the fog. but diversity is also interesting, not only sun and heat. - how do we still walk.

in the village of goynuk, valery shanin reunites with the members of the expedition. the last part of the route we walk in a complete team. the path leaves the sea again and begins to climb up a slope overgrown by a pine forest. - why turik? - it is a sign of desperation! - those who can't find the marks, make their own. - in one place they are tourists with cones. - okay, did not work with the cone. at least, like this. - if such tourist were standing there, we would notice immediately, instead we had to run there.

- but now, if somebody look at my piramide he can easy find the mark. - we do good thing for the others. - cold, clean, you can swim if you want. and i guess you can drink too. there is so much water below — in all shapes. according to the map, after this point, there are no sources at all. it is necessary to do a halt. even despite the fact that it is still early. - i drink green tea, eat cookies. - slightly cheaper and tasteless. and this is a little more expensive and tasty. - the expedition headed for the water.

- one can not handle, only this way. now we will put a rope around kate, i'll be holding her or she might fall in the turbulent stream and it will carry her straight to gã¶ynã¼k. - back. and here 150 times. in this trip, travellers usually stayed for the night after dark. the tent was assembled in the dark, by touch. the first opportunity to consider it carefully. we made use of the parts that seems unnecessary. - that's fine, sweet, soft, spick and span down there. it will be very comfortable to sleep today. and no mosquitoes. - you don't need to put it through the ring. - just place the actual ring there.

- just place this thing into the ring and all three of them will be together. do you understand? - like this? - place the pocket now. - have you done it? - let's devoid sugar, one piece for everybody. - let's get going after extinguishing the fire. - it is so much lighter without the water! - absolutely. yes! - part of the forest was burnt. probably tourists that did not extinguished their fire before leaving.

the expedition on the lycian trail comes to and end. for 24 days, from april 24th to may 18th, the travellers covered 509 kilometers. - after 509 km of walk, i decided to ride 15 km. - what a speed we picked! took a cruising speed. - the trail is so diverse. if you have time, you can try to cover it all. - walking on the lycian trail, it is a good training for legs and the overall musculoskeletal system. hike on the lycian trail ended. and the project "world without visa" keeps going. ahead of us, a new journey, to visit more countries visa-free for russians.

green canyon ташкент Rating: 4.5 Diposkan Oleh: Melissa Nur Aulia El-Zulfa